Like all days that start really well, it can only go in one direction. And it did. We awoke early, as expected with the tram stop beneath our window competing with the tradesmen to deafen us into wakefulness. After a reasonable breakfast in a plaster dust coated salon, we paid up and headed out of town on a cloudy but warm day. Navigating through the outskirts was straightforward and after the pretty suburbs we cycled through woodland on a well signed route. Most of the track was blacktop and we made good progress until ascending onto the Rhine flood dyke which was gravel track and hence slower. We reached the huge lock area at Gambsheim and watched the Rhine barges as we had a coffee. Shortly after this point we were blocked at road works and followed a well signed alternative route that took us through pretty Alsace country villages and was actually better than the pre-planned route close to the river. After another opportune coffee stop (just in time for a take-away as France shuts at lunchtime!) the journey went downhill, metaphorically. We eventually merged with the 'original' route which took us through much wetland reserve area where herons rule in abundance and stagnant water was all around. We flew through clouds of 'flies' which bounced off our faces and arms as we cycled through. All too soon we came across the consequences of the past weeks of rain and had flooded sections to paddle through and walk around. As soon as our progress dropped to walking pace we realised that the flies are in fact mosquitos. Big ones. Hungry ones. Eventually by-passing the floods we were back in the saddle, but then the blackening skies opened. We stopped to don full waterproofs and continued in a torrential downpour. When rejoining the flood dyke an old gent leaned out of an upstairs window and started telling us something incomprehensible in French ... or German. (We are still in Alsace). I suspect we were soon to realise what it was. We soon came across another section of the Cycleway that turned silty, then muddy then wet, then impassable. We doubled back and transferred over to the road and continued to Neuberg ferry. Whilst dithering at the turn-off down to the ferry, a guardian angel, in the form of a lady who had passed us earlier, doubled back to give us some advice. She got out of her car and stood with us in the pouring rain for 10 minutes explaining in broken English that the road to the ferry was flooded and the ferry wasn't operating. We went over all the alternatives and she recommended getting the train to Karlsruhe. We would never have known Neuberg had a station as it was well on the far side of the village. The only alternative was a trek to the next bridge and cross to Karlsruhe there, making the day well over 100km. In the rain. At first this was my preferred option, but Anne soon persuaded me that this was a very stupid idea (she was right), (always is). We got two tickets for us and bikes (for the cost of one ticket at home) and had a comfortable, though slightly ignominious end to the day's journey. But boy, is the cycle provision on German trains good! Our hotel is 100m from the main station at Karlsruhe. So, today is not the longest day yet (should have been 86 km), but hey-ho. Whoever you are, madam, you saved our day and we are in your debt!
Panniers, shoes, kit has all been rinsed in the shower, and we have the luxury of a heated towel rail, so our washing is now up to date. Pity the bikes are mingin'! A walk around the surrounds failed to reveal any city centre, and it was difficult finding anywhere for a beer or to eat. Maybe it was a holiday experience like this that influenced Sir Arthur Harris? Anyway, Karlsruhe is not on our list of places to revisit at a later date. And another thing: the ferry we need tomorrow is not operating either due to floods. So we shall cross back by train again to Worth am Rhein and head north from there! It wasn't meant to be this difficult!
76.2 km; 17.6 kph avg; 4:19 moving time; Ascent 47m
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